Next, you'll want to acquire your safety equipment as mentioned above, and prepare your surface for the paint to be stripped. Typically this means finding an open area outdoors or a well-ventilated area indoors where there will be plenty of airflow. Essential Steps for Removing Paintsįirst, make sure you have a safe place for the chemicals to off-gas adequately. Whether you're a DIYer or an expert, it's important to understand the process of stripping paint and how you can do it as safely as possible. I wouldn't use specific model paints for any model, and an airbrush is totally unnecessary.Using paint strippers right and using them safely is an essential part of getting the best result from your project. After a few days drying you can clear coat a metallic with three or four wet coats, or for a solid colour cut back any orange peel with 1500 grit and polish starting with T Cut or another cutting compound, then finish with a regular car polish on a very soft cloth. The paint will dry down an awful lot, and at first you will question putting so many coats on. Allow a 20 minute drying time between each full coat. Numerous passes with the aerosol will get you to that stage, but that is only one coat, you'll need to do it another five or so times, on each component. Then you will need five or six topcoats for solid colour (maybe three for metallic), all applied 'wet', which is when the paint self levels or pools but doesn't run. After a days drying somewhere warm rub down with 1200 grit wet'n'dry for a smooth surface and careful not to rub away at edges. First two topcoats should just give the solid base colour. Undercoat and look for imperfections, but don't go mad, you are better off rubbing down a top coat as this will show up problems much better. Make up some wooden blocks or make wire coat hangers into handles for body and doors etc (double sided trim tape is ideal for sticking components to wooden blocks)and go at it as if you were painting a real car. These will be OK over bare or undercoated plastic. Modern aerosol are acrylic paint in nearly all cases, so if you want to take the plastic look off the interior or chassis and engine etc you can add a can of matt or satin black, silver etc. While there buy an aerosol of either grey or white undercoat, and if it is a metallic finish you will need a clear lacquer aerosol as well. I agree with a lot of what lucky says, but for a Burago I would strip that paint off because the factory paint is so bad.įor a really easy time simply go to the nearest auto paint or accessory shop and have them mix an aerosol tin of whatever Ferrari colour you want using the Ferrari paint code. I just stripped the primer off of the hood & doors of a Lusso that I'm working on because the first color coats looked awful. The quality of a paint job on a model car is probably better than on a real car because the size is so reduced - the slightest error becomes a major flaw. It will look like glass when you're done & that's what you want on a model. I use a polishing system that has cloths with grades 2400 - 12,000 for final sanding/polishing of the color coats. You want the finish to be smooth & without blemishes. More coats, more wet sanding.take your time & build it up gradually. After the color is solid, then you can wet sand. For darker colors you can use a light gray primer. It's better to lay down several thin coats than one heavy coat of paint. Once you've got good coverage of primer, then you can wet sand with 2000 paper. I use Tamiya's acrylic laquers & find them to be super. Then lay down several, 3 - 4, coats of primer. Strip the paint to bare metal as noted above.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |